Audi TT DIY DIY V1 Hardwiring

I just finished hardwiring my V1, using the sunroof method, and I'm all smiles!!! It took me about 2 hours to figure out what was what, and then when I was finished, it was all worth it. I will try to get some pictures taken, I really didn't even think about it till I was done.

Keep in mind, this was on a B6, so I don't know if it's that easy for a B5 or B7, but it might be the same. I didn't want to run a ground wire all the way throught the A-pillar, and down to the fuse box. There are 2 bolts that you can ground to less than 6 inches from where the 12v lead is. The only problem is that they are underneath the headliner, and a #*@&! to get too, unless you are using a small @ss wrench. It took me a while to get the bolt loose, to get the negative ground on there.

I mounted the V1 above the rearview mirror, to the right side.

I really need pictures on here! Sorry, but I had to rant, very happy with it!

Ok, so here are some pictures!!!


I started by removing the plastic covering's to the lights, which allow you to see two phillips head screws. Remove these, and the whole piece will drop out of the headliner with a little pull.


This picture shows where the 12V lead is plugged into... This is a switched lead, which turns on and off with the car's ignition, perfect for a radar detector.


A close up of the 12V lead...


This is where I put the negative ground to... It's a realy pain in the @ss to get too, but if you use a small wrench, you can get the bolt loose, and put your lead between the bolt and the frame of the car... I would not reccomend removing the bolt completly, because it might be that much harder to get it back on... If you don't use this location for a ground, you may find yourself trying to route a negative ground wire all the way down to your fuse box, and who really wants to do that?


A close up of the pain in the @ss bolt, A.K.A. "Negative Ground"


The finished product!!! Just tuck all of your loose wires into the headliner somewhere. I would reccomend that you zip tie the extra cabling, so that if you have to open up the compartment again, you don't have a bunch of cables drop down. All in all, you are left with a clean looking radar mount position, about 4 inches of coord that's visible, and the radar unit is just below the factory tint level, which does not inhibit the radar detector's performance. Very happy with it!