Audi A4 (B5). Replacing Fuel Injector Gaskets

Difficulty:
2 on a scale of 1-10

Parts Needed:
8ea of part number 035 906 149 A
4ea of part number 035 906 037 (not required as old ones can easily be reused)
Dielectric Grease
Carb Cleaner Spray

Tools Needed:
Flathead Screwdriver
5mm hex
Needle Nose Pliers
Rags (old t-shirts)
Rubber Gloves

Time to complete:
45 minutes if you fly
1 ½ hours if you take your time

Here are the parts you will need:

This is the area where we will be working:

You can see how dirty it has become in this area. Some weeping is normal (this appears excessive):

Cut and Remove cable ties that secure the injectors wiring harnesses:

Determine the location of your fuel pump fuse:

Gently Pry off the fuse panel cover:

Use the tool inside the panel and remove the fuel pump fuse:

Try to start your car, run it until it dies. If it does not turn over, just crank it a few times.

Remove the 2 – 5mm hex screws holding the fuel rail in place (be careful not to lose them):

With the screws removed lift the entire fuel rail straight up applying equal force on each end. May need to gently wiggle it.:

Looks dirty huh?

Disconnect wiring harness from each injector (pulls straight off):

Pry off each injectors retaining clip with a small screwdriver:

Now, it is time to remove each injector from its housing. Place some rags under each injector. When you pull each off, some fuel will spill out (between @1-5 thimbles full)
Pull each one straight out (down) – it will take a little force.

Cleanup each injector by spraying and wiping with some carb cleaner.

When they are all clean, it is time to replace the gaskets.

I found it easiest to use a small pair of needle-nosed pliers to grab part of the gasket. Pull it towards you, then lift it up a little (over the housing). Place your thumb under it so that it does not slip back into place and work the rest of it off over the housing with your hands:

Injectors with gaskets removed:

Now that all of the gaskets are removed, lube up all of the new gaskets with a little dielectric grease. Use rubber gloves and place a little grease between your fingers. Rub it into each gasket to lightly coat them:

All Injectors cleaned up, new lubed gaskets installed:

Before you re-install the new injectors, cleanup the gunk surrounding their housing. Be careful not to let anything fall in.

I used an old pool cue which tapers in size. I cut off an end and placed it over the hole so that no major gunk would fall in while cleaning around it.

I used carb cleaner, a toothbrush and some clean rags to clean up the surrounding area.

Now, insert the injectors into each rail housing. Just push them straight in (up). Be careful how far up you push them. There are some slots that should still be visible which is where the retaining clip latches onto.

Once the injector is pushed into place, install the retaining clip. Note that there are slots cut into each injector that will lineup with the retaining clip. If you push the injector up too far, these slots will not be visible.

Each injector should be installed with retaining clips in place. The area should be fully clean.
Now place the rail and injectors over the holes. Make sure everything is lined up OK. Press them into place applying equal force from both sides until they are seated well.
Screw down the support brackets.
Re-Install the wiring harnesses and re-cable tie them in place.
Put your fuel pump fuse back in and replace the fuse cover.
Start your car!

I found no visible issues with my old gaskets, but I was seeing a lot of weeping from around this area (hence a large buildup of gunk around each injector). I don’t know why this is. One of the injectors did appear more cruddy than the others (2nd from the left above) with some white buildup on the injector, not sure of the cause. In any event, this is an easy and cheap task that should be done as part of normal maintenance.

Audi A4 (B5). Painting intake runners

If you feel the need to clean up your 2.8L engine bay, one of the best ways is to paint the intake runners. It is one of the cheapest upgrades you can do.

The Cost
- $10
Items Needed
- Newspaper
- 100 grit sand paper
- Tape
- VHT Caliper Paint (available at Auto-Zone)
Time
- 1 hour
The Procedure:

First: take off the engine cover, and expose the intake runners:

...barrowed this photo

Second: Sand the runners as far as you can reach. your goal is to try to make them as smooth as possible.

Third: Clean off dust with a paper towel and a strong cleaner

Fourth: place Newspaper to completely cover the engine bay, fenders, and front bumper. This paint will overspray, so be sure to put time into this and do not leave any spot un covered.

Fifth: tape off runners. Place tpe beneath the fuel rail and place engine cover back on to ensure that the tape is placed far enough down so that you cannot see it when the cover is in place.

Sixth: use duct tape and connect the newspaper to the fuel rail, and ensure that nothing is left exposed except for the intake runners.

Seventh: take your can of VHT caliper paint (Color of your choice), and spray runners making sure to spray from a 12-16 inch distance, and try not to saturate them.

Eighth: repeat step seven at least 4 times for good results, spray thin coats, and allow ten minutes between spraying. When you have applied the desired amount of coats, allow a couple hours to dry...no need to do anything during this time.

Ninth: remove all newspaper and tape, and apply engine cover. it should come out something like this:

and I think this looks much cleaner than before!

also: this will leave you PLENTY of paint to do your calipers as well....I did both and still have half a can left over.

Audi A4 (B5). Cone Intake for $80 Cdn.

Despite the fact that I got ****faced last night, and woke up drunk this morning at 6:40am to go to a scrap yard to look for parts in a snow storm/bloody cold weather, I still somehow managed to get this done, so its pretty easy. I think the hardest part was trying to understand the advanced mechanics of zipties in my retarded state of mind.

First the schematic I came up with for the project:

Thanks to whomever picture that was.

You need:
Regular tools, cutters, screwdrivers, etc.

Zip ties, couple of em. I think I used about 5 or 6.

K&N filter with a 1" inlet. I used part no. 62-1410. $22.90

K&N Filter with a 70mm/2.75" opening. Part no. RU1520. - $55.00

I think this is the largest filter that would fit, being 7".

1. Take out the entire air box. Unplug what ever lines you can that run around the airbox because they just get in the way. Find the 1" hose that runs to the sec. air injection pump, and remove the top flat plastic piece, pull it, pry it with a screw driver, it will come off but its a bit of a *****. Install the small air filter in its place. Tight fit, but it'll go in. Push it near the headlamp, and out of the way.

2. Take out the MAF from inside the airbox, and install the lower half of the box back in the car. Insert the MAF into the filter, and connect to main air duct. Dont tighten anything yet, make sure it fits first. Once it does take it out.

3. Remove the heat shield from the top half of the airbox, and fit it back to where it normally sits between the cat and the intake. At this point its good to have someone near you who knows how to use zip ties, or it could get difficult. (Thanks Art ). The shield has 4 holes, zip tie the bottom two holes to the hoses near each. Front hole will probably need two zip ties, this proved to be a pretty difficult concept for my hungover ass, but somehow I got it. For the top holes, re-attach the line that is mounted to the holes by using a nut and bolt on the front hole, and a zip tie on the rear. Dont need to do it this way, just get the shield in there so it doesnt move, what I did made sense at the time so I'll stick with it. No play what so ever, and it gets the job done.

4. Once the heat shield is secure, install the filter in place. It take a bit of moving it around to get everything to sit properly, but once it does its in there with out any play, so I didnt do anything else to secure the filter.

5. Re-attach everything, and youre done.

This really should not take too long, even though I spent a better half of the afternoon doing it. Sorry no IAT/MAF flow before and after logs because today I just didnt care, I was doing it anyways, car sounds much deeper now, and yes its got the BOV sound too, although not as loud as my GTI with an AEM CAI. Maybe I'll do a CAPS run tomorrow, but really the car doesnt feel any different, I did this for easy access to the MAF and because I hated working with the OEM box.